March 26-29th

This past weekend was an epic chapter in my tramping biography – 3 days, nineteen hours of backpacking through streams, across forests and up entirely vertical sand dunes! It was fantastic!!!

Cape Reinga is the north most tip of New Zealand, a holy land for the Maori where spirits are said to descend to the underworld after death. The entire climate of the hike was definitely colored by an appreciation of being at the corner of the world—I frequently felt as though we had reached a Lost World or were just about to fall off of the earth’s edge!

We left after my 7pm Spanish class on Thursday, driving about 3 hours to Pahia and crashing at a hostel for the night (enduring numerous creatures and bugs inside I might add) before taking off again at around 7 the next morning to drive the next 2/3 hours to the cape. We arrived at Wahiki Landing Complex, who we had contacted earlier in the week about a drop-off and pick-up at the trailhead because we would be walking in a line, not circuit, and thus could not take our car. It was here several things took an ever so slight detour from our meticulously planned itinerary..

The Landing had been described in the travel guide as the last gas stop before the coast…we were out of gas by the time we arrived…so was the gas station. The DOC had also been described as being “just up the road” from the Landing so, being the inherently city kids we are, assumed they meant physically next door and thus planned on stopping in for a map and directions. Apparently, “Just up the road” in “we live at the end of the world” speak really means 1.5 hours away. So far, no map, no gas.

Next, we tried to work out the drop off situation. Although they assured us that numerous hikers go through them for their transport services, by the confusion our arrival caused, you would think that they had not had visitors in several years.
Long story short, they eventually dug up a map and finagled a ride, with a very Uncle-Willy-esque farmer whose manure in the back of his truck and spiderwebs on his windshield only added to his rustic charm personality. Having just arrived in NZ 4 months earlier from South Africa, he spent the 15 minute drive relating adorable stories of his 5 year old grandson who he had moved to NZ to spend more time with.

Finally arriving at the trailhead at Spirits Bay around midday, we barreled ahead to tackle the 6 hour coastal hike. Once again, the NZ landscape surprised me with a completely different canvas than my previous tramps. I found myself walking along stunning white sand beaches next to crystal blue waters. I also found myself climbing almost entirely vertical green hills up and around the high tide areas.
That night we camped at an official campsite where we gleefully poked fun at the other campers who had DRIVEN there! After a delicious freeze-dried meal (no sarcasm intended, it was delicious!) we turned in to our four person tent…all five of us that is. Of course, and I am still being reminded of this, I slept splendidly. The mosquitoes didn’t bother me, nor did numerous bathroom exits by my buds (I was sleeping with my head by the door) and I so I got a solid 8 hours of sleep. My traveling partners could not say the same…

The next morning we watched the sun rise on the beach, went for a quick swim and then packed up to hit the trail for a 7 hour excursion. About three hours in we made it to the Lighthouse, a landmark of Cape Reinga where it is possible to see the Tasman Sea meet the Pacific Ocean. It was a unique sight, watching waves in the middle of the ocean perpendicular to the shore, and definitely a highlight of the trip. The lighthouse can also be accessed by vehicles and so as we emerged from the trail below (now three days shower-less and extremely sweaty) we certainly caught the tour bus travelers off guard. We had a relaxing lunch break on the cliffs before taking off again, this time to the by far best leg of the trail-- a high coastal trail following the ridgeline with views of the ocean meeting, then dipping off into lush foliage, before descending onto the most magnificent beach I have ever ever been too. Completely empty and shining brilliantly in the perfect weather, I was really moved to tears. It impossible to explain the sentiments and impression the beach left on me, and as we discussed while walking the hour across it, we did not know how we could relate the experience later on. Pictures do not do it justice!

Saturday night we were scheduled to stay at an “informal” campground that by 2010 promised water and toilets, but as night approached we were unable to find the markings for the mysterious allotment. Finding a clearing right off the beach, we decided to call it a night so that we could eat dinner on the beach and watch the sunset. Another delicious freeze dried meal, stargazing and then a good night’s sleep. Well, rather a good night’s sleep for yours truly. More humid then the previous day, my companions related several adjectives the next morning for the tent experience, including a jail cell and a mosquito sauna. At 630 am exactly, they fled from the tent and we were packed and on the trail not 45 minutes later! That morning was a tough haul if only because it was a more monotonous trail and because our bruises, blisters and backpacks were finally taking a toll. Powering through to the end of the hike, we ended at sand dunes (plopped in the middle of streams and trees…only in NZ!) and then exited the park to the road, where we found ourselves on a farm in a field of cow herds without any fences! I was in heaven, watching the glistening black cows gallop through the fields all around us, mooing and acting like the country cows they were.

“Uncle Willy” met us along the road and before long we were headed back to Auckland. Stinky, smelly and all sorts of dirty we entered Whitaker Place at approximately 8pm absolutely happy as clams.

This week is all about studying and cramming for some big tests. Then Friday I am flying to Christchurch on the south island where I start a two week spring break bus tour! I don’t plan on having internet access, but I am hoping to track down a phone card so I can call on Easter! I miss everyone more and more, and I hope things are going well!



Team Cape Reinga at the trail start...from left Maura, Kevin, Ayelet, Henry and Joe



An epic and rather dramatic photo!



Trail along the beach




On the road again...




About half the tramp was elevated along these mountains/cliffs with great view of the water





The meeting of the Tasman and Pacific




Walking the ridge, taking in the view!!




Beach on Saturday




Sunset Saturday night...not a bad place to eat dinner :)




Impromptu campsite..ridiculous faces mirror ridiculous tent size..and ridiculous sriped long johns!! They match my green crocs so well don't ya think!




The best end to a tramp yet...me and Betsy!

Hi everybody! Time if really flying by here! I have another two-part update to catch up. I miss everyone miles! Long story short, life in Auckland is going swimmingly, I have an intimidating amount of exams and work this week, but two weeks of spring break to look forward to starting April 3rd!


March 20-22
Last weekend was an organized trip through my program, Arcadia, so it was a reunion of sorts with my orientation group who I started this journey with only 5 short weeks ago. We left on Friday afternoon and drove about 4 hours north to the Bay of Islands, where we stayed in trailers at the program director, Jane, parents’ house. They own a small beach house on a STUNNING portion of a private beach in the northland region. It was a relaxing weekend of delicious homemade food, swimming and exploring...we even had a bonfire on the beach Saturday night.

Jane’s parents really reminded me of Grandma and Poppi. They were incredibly hospitable, and despite a petite kitchen, they somehow managed to manufacture enough food for a small army, including vegetarian portions for yours truly. All in all, we had a ton of fun and fantastic weather.

On Sunday we took a dolphin-watch boat tour of the Bay area. We were able to toot around the various islands for about three hours, including the “famous” hole in the rock, pictured below. I loved being out on the ocean and spent almost the entire trip with my head hanging off the side of the boat enjoying the wind. A pod of dolphins saw directly beneath the boat, I picked the right side to stand on and so was lucky enough to have a bird’s eye view!

Arriving for sunset on Friday.... their "backyard"

In search of blacksand beaches the next day, encountering high tide!

My friend Andrea and me on the beach Saturday night

Group Arcadia photo with beach and rock formations in background

Dolphins!

So happy at the hole in the rock!

Happy Birthday Dad!! Love you Lots!

A Few more weekend pictures..

Right before sunrise

Margaux and Myself, camouflaging well into the NZ scenery

Mt. Taranki with sunset reflecting off side...We could have climbed it easy peasy no?

Mt. Taranaki again

Mother Nature being considerate, placing some handy wooden trails through the swamp

Part Two:

This weekend, still high on tramping fever from orientation and motivated by talk of beautiful weather, we decided it would be an ideal time for another hiking trip. We also (somehow) determined that we were qualified to plan a tramp ourselves…..

We spent the later part of the week planning an excursion in Taranaki, in Egmont National Park. The original plan, to climb Mt. Egmont, was off the drawing board almost immediately after a quick phone call to the DOC (Department of Conservation), who politely informed me I was welcome to climb it, but due to the snowfall in the past week I would need gear such as ice axes, ropes and crampons. So on to Plan B….

We instead chose the Pouakai Circuit, a two day tramp around Egmont, about 26 km or 14 miles. Unable to find a hostel in nearby New Plymouth, we settled for booking accommodations in Mokau, about an hour north. Arriving around 10 pm to the small, coastal fishing village on Friday the 13th under a full moon, I was having second thoughts about this little adventure, to say the very least. When we failed to find the Palm House Backpackers in the literally 3 street town, we apprehensively pulled over to a closed motel to use their pay phone. I was comforted by the grandma-sounding voice who answered and within minutes we had found the backpackers hostel and were being welcomed by a sincerely lovely elderly couple into a 1970s décor-happy room.

Feeling much better about the situation after assessing the lessening likelihood of meeting a scary-movie ending, we decided to venture down to the beach to play a little Frisbee. Unable to find the entrance down to the beach, we stumbled upon three residents blasting a karaoke machine on the otherwise silent, deserted street. They beckoned us to join, and we soon learned that they were preparing for a 40th birthday celebration the next day. Ed, principal of the 26 student elementary school in town, was the birthday boy, married to Annabelle, both Kiwis who had travelled a great deal in the states and across the world. They were extremely hospitable, inspired they stated, by the necessity of passing on the kindness others had shown to them as clueless backpackers a decade past. At this point, with a little Bon Jovi and Abba under our belt, the night had taken a completely different and absolutely fantastic turn than originally expected.

The next day we got up early, had a quick visit to the black sand beaches we couldn’t find the night before, and then headed to Taranaki. We spent about 9 hours hiking a magnificent trail this day, around every corner there seemed to be a more and more spectacular view. The weather made the hike, the day was so clear we could see as far as Tongaririo national park hours away. I have a feeling we enjoyed weather found only a handful of times a year in Egmont. We met only one or two other hikers along the way, giving the entire experience an appropriate, “I am so darn lucky” appreciation.

That night we stayed in Pouakai Hut, where we watched the sun set behind the mountains, enjoyed crystal clear constellations and chatted with another group of Kiwi trampers. They were from the town below the park and had just hiked up for the night. They were also kind enough to share their delectable homemade dinner with us, which easily trumped our cold canned spaghetti and 5-bean mixes. The next day we woke around 6:30 and hiked about a half hour to watch the sunrise. This is easily the highlight of my entire trip thus far. Surrounded by a snow-capped volcano, lusciously green mountain peaks and my good buds, I watched the sun come from behind a distant mountain in a split second. One minute I saw a mountain with an orange glow and the next second the sun had appeared and slowly continued to rise from behind it. Not knowing what else to say, I simply exclaimed, I see it!

We then walked down to two small “lakes” which were more like natural made kiddie pools, placed just so in a open field so that Mt. Egmont was entirely reflected in it.

We hit the trail around 9:30 that day, making the final leg of the route in approximately 4.5 hours. Descending downward, we traded the ridge-line trail and swamp area for river crossings and waterfalls. What seemed like a lifetime but was in effect only 48 hours, we met the cold pavement of civilization at 2pm. After an immensely satisfying vege-burger (made of mashed potatoes and peppers!) we headed once again, back to Auckland.




You know its going to be a good trip when you see two raindbows on the way!

Mokau Motel looks a whole lot less frightening in the morning!


Black sand beach with moon in background


Team Taranaki getting geared up..from left Margaux, Maura, Joe and Henry



Margaux makin her way across the swamp


Sunday morning sunrise


Mt. Egmont reflected in lake

Second day on top of Henry Peak, getting chased off by incoming cloud!

Crossing the river, don't look down!

Wow it has been an eventful week! Sorry for lack of updates…I will do this post in two weekend sections!


The Tramping Club Orientation weekend was fantastic. We drove barely 40 minutes out of the city to an almost tropical forest wonderland in The Waitakere Ranges. It was dense bush that was incredibly humid once you were engulfed on the trail, and was made up of bizarre combinations of foliage…think Christmas trees next to palm trees. About sixty students went and we split up into several levels of easy/medium/hikes to get to the AUTC hut. I ended up on a hike with the “Captain,” who is the club’s presidente equivalent. I could barely understand a word he said, as his gruff “born from the mountains” persona, added to the intensity of his Kiwi slang and accent (he does not own a passport and has never left the island) made him quite the personality. We went on a round-about tramp through the NZ bush, sloshing in mud and singing NZ songs.


The hut was fantastic, very similar to the LOJ at Tufts. There was a great feast of burgers and vege burgers that night and then the games began. The tradition of these games became apparent as the night progressed, when reigning champions stepped up to defend records and titles. The games were ridiculous, perfect example being attempting to climb from one side of a table under to the other, essentially a spiderman move that few humans can triumph. So lots of falling off picnic tables for an hour...


The next day we headed back out on non-eventful tramp, save for an encounter with a wasp nest on the trail. (I ran through without getting stung…my two friends not so lucky). The tramp ended on Piha Beach, a gorgeous surfing beach with waves so strong just standing ankle deep is a challenge to stay balanced. There is actually a NZ reality show that follows the Piha rescue team, and we saw them filming in the water.


Twas a great weekend that made returning to the urban-centre difficult, but I enjoyed an eventful week in Auckland as well. On Wednesday I did some exploring in Parnell to a Rose garden and I had my first New Zealand Sign Language class!


I really missed celebrating birthdays at Grandma’s, but I hope you all had a wonderful time!

Me in front of the AUTC Hut!

Stream crossing in the Waitakere Ranges

Piha Beach!

First week of classes is done! And it was a breeze….except for Spanish 200 that is! On the first day my professor learned that I was from New York, and subsequently has been able to remember my (and mostly only my) name. This means I get called on 9237892357 more times than anyone else! I have two American professors, and am always amused by their generalizations and explanations of “the states” to the Kiwi class. Case in point, my Anthro lecturer pointed out his Patagonia fleece vest as all the rage in America, as is fly-fishing in the Tennessee River.

On Wednesday I only had one early morning class, so some friends and I headed out to Waiheke Island, about a half hour ferry ride from downtown Auckland. We couldn’t have asked for better weather and were so excited because we had heard you could rent bicycles to ride around. We found the rental place immediately after disembarking, and were informed that the beach we wanted to go to (rated the 9th best in the world by National Geographic) would be about a 40 minute ride. That was at 12pm. Needless to say, we made it to the beach around 6:30. Seems our guide forgot to mention the hills, the highway and the heat factors! Or perhaps he was using Lance Armstrong as a parameter for time. We ended up stopping at two other beaches along the way for a break. They were gorgeous and I was able to go in for a long swim at Palm Beach. The water was completely clear and warm(ish). We had a great time despite the difficult ride, and after finally arriving at the last beach we figured we could just hop on the bus back (somehow biking back was just out of the question). Who knew bikes weren’t allowed on the bus????!! So out came the ten-pound lip as we begged and pleaded the bus driver to take pity on our poor tired clueless American selves. He caved and was an absolute savior driving us back to the rental place, where we ditched the bike and then ran to catch the ferry with exactly two minutes to spare. It was a memorable day.

This weekend I am off to the Ranges for an orientation weekend with the Tramping (Hiking) Club, of which I am a proud new member. The club has their own hut and I hear its good fun!

View of downtown Auckland from the ferry

Bike Rental! Alyssa, Nico and Andrea

Towards the end of the ride..check me out Poppi! Pretty hardcore eh?

Onetangi Beach at last!

Yesterday we went CAVING!! First we abseiled down into the cave (I went first! I was too light, so the rope didn’t go down by itself and I had to feed it through the rack!) Then we walked through in the dark so we could observe the glowworms, which are actually these unpleasant looking clear larvae that spin tiny hanging webs to catch prey. But from far away and in large groups they look magnificent! We toobed back lazy river style where we then saw….EELS IN THE WATER! Next we worked our way to another end of the cave, climbing and maneuvering through tiny tunnels throughout. It was so much fun and just out of this world to be among the underground rock formations. To get out we had to rock climb up where we had abseiled down. When we got to the spot, the group before us was still there because a climber had dislocated his shoulder and had spent the last 30 minutes attempting to climb the remainder of wall….ouch ouch ouch. My lovely roommate Ayelet proceeded to tell the whole group that perhaps I was bit of a bad luck charm, seeing as the group before me in Zorbing ran into difficulty as well. She’s a charmer! All in all in it was a fantastic long tiring once-in-a-lifetime kind of day! And now…off to my first class!

The crew pre-descent, practicing our abseiling skills!

The entrance to the cave were we abseiled into

A different kind of lazy river; me and my flatmate Ayelet!

Sliding down some rock formations!

This is NOT my hand!

Checking out the glowworms...serious business!

Success, I made it out in one piece!