A Change of Plans...

This weekend we had BIG plans. What I mean by that, of course, is we started planning earlier than Thursday night. And what do we get for our forward thinking? Insurmountable obstacles! We had wanted to hike the North Island’s Great Day Walk through Tongariro crossing and then go skydiving in Taupo. Once again a quick call to the department of conservation provided helpful and completely deflating news. Sure you can go to Tongariro the DOC employee informed me politely…if you don’t mind being the middle of a four day snow storm and if you have crampons, heavy weather gear etc. etc. etc. It’s always the same ol’story with these folks! While we pondered what to do with ourselves for two whole days off from Uni, we went to the Auckland Museum, and I found a few treasures!




Sir Edmund Hilary, the first man to climb Mt. Everest, was a Kiwi! They have the ice ax he used on display, accompanied by some really interesting video footage and interview segements. Apparently, Mr. Hilary didn't understand why everyone made such a big deal when he returned home...





Not sure why this stuffed elephant was in the museum, but ever since becoming a Jumbo I feel oblidged to take a picture whenever I see an elephant!









Joe with a Kiwi Boy Scout and Girl Scout, sporting stylin' uniforms! Note the box says "Girl Guide Biscuits" !

In lieu of Taupo, we settled on the Pinnacles in Coromandel for a two day tramp. I shouldn’t say settled though, as we ended up having a fantastic trip and glorious weather!

A more low-key tramp then previous, we drove only two hours outside of Auckland before we reached the trailhead. It is a popular track, and Saturday night we spent in an 80 bunk DOC hut that was nicer than some hostels! We tramped for about four hours on Saturday, mostly under tree canopy but with some great views of the Pinnacles. The next day was all downhill…literally not figuratively, and we had finished in the circuit in about three hours. We then took a quick visit to hot-sand beaches, where you can dig a hole in the sand that fills with hot water –at points hot enough to burn your feet! I am not informed about the “science” of it, but it was a fun thing to experience.

Miss and Love!
Maura
xoxoxoxo

Team Pinnacles, from left Henry, Kevin, Maura and Joe

View of the Pinnacles

Hot-Sand Beach

The countdown begins…

Only a few more weeks to go in enZed, so I am determined to make the most of it! Even if that means driving 6 ½ hours east to avoid the rain for a weekend tramp….which is exactly what we did this weekend, trucking it (or rather mazda-ing it) all the way to Kaweka Forest park in Hawkes Bay.

Getting a later start than anticipated due to last minute planning snafus (we had not decided until that morning exactly where we planned to drive to that afternoon) we assembled on the first floor of Whitaker flats at 3pm. Loading down our rental car with smelly camping equipment and tons of snack sweets as had now become routine, we were just about to depart when Joe jokingly asked –do you have your tramping boots Maura? Before I could retort a sassy reply, pleeasse how could I forget my tramping boots?!, I realized…I had. Oooops!

Friday night we spent in Napier, a town noted for its wineries and art deco décor. When the town was hit by an earthquake in 1931, the entirety was rebuilt in snazzy art deco style, which is still preserved today. Arriving late, we walked around and visited the moonlit beach before hitting the hay in anticipation of an early departure.

Saturday we rose early, still unclear of our exact route, to visit an outdoors store that had promised a topographic map recommended by the DOC. Kaweka was, as it turns out, a park less traversed by trampers and tourists. In fact, according to the sign-in book we were the only Americans to make the trek thus far in 2009. The forest is predominantly utilized by backcountry hunters after deer and possums. We crossed paths with a handful of these gruff folk along our travels, each with a more terrifying plethora of guns than the previous.

From Napier we had about another 1.5 hour drive through unpaved country roads, it was great weather and beautiful scenery, there are a few pictures below.

We spent the day hiking through the ranges, stopping off at Te Puhia hut where we would spend the night before taking a sidetrack route to natural hot springs, a spa experience gifted by natural thermal activity. That night we shared the hut with two Israeli girls and a late arrival, an elderly German man who had tramped in the dark after receiving poor time estimates from the DOC. He was a lively story teller, though I only caught 1/3 words.

The next morning we decided to conquer the mountain summit next to the hut, and then follow an alternative route out of the park from the other side. After a grueling hour uphill, we lost cover from the trees and found ourselves exposed to the increasingly strong winds. Though we were so close to the summit I could practically smell it…we knew it would be foolish to continue in the conditions. Flapping like flags on the descent, we high tailed it downward back the way we had come. Later, I would find a Kiwi description for the wind speed in my guide book “it would be hard yakker in cloudy conditions, and it can blow forty bastards when it wants to.” The Kiwis once again prove mastery over technical terminology.

We got caught in a rain cloud on our way out of the park, and a bit disheartened from our failure to ascend the peak, found ourselves preoccupied with thoughts of pizza and ice cream for the majority of the afternoon hike. Once back in Napier, we sought out a pizza place open on Sundays from the information booth, and delightfully, were able to find a suitable place that provided a tasty meal. Don’t get me wrong however, it was by no means NY pizza. Which, by the way, is something I think of often and plan to devour as my first meal home!!

We had a long drive ahead, and made it home to Auckland closer to midnight. I quickly unpacked my damp and odorous backpack before calling it a night.

Lots of birthdays to celebrate this week, some of which I missed while in the woods! Happy Birthday Aunt Kathleen, Eileen, Naomi and Emma!!!

The country drive


Sheep on the road!!






Team Kaweka...from left, Andrea, Joe, Henry, Maura



The ranges in the park

The hut

The wind on the almost-summit making the trees do a jig

The drive home

Kia Ora!! Now for the Great Barrier Island Edition!

Great Barrier Island is the fourth largest of NewZealand’s neighbors, and is about a half hour plane ride from the coast of Auckland. It has a population of only 800 people and about 60% of the island is considered a nature reserve. While the rest of NZ was polluted by possums back in the day, completely destroying and re-designing the landscape, they never made it to the Barrier. As a result, several native plant species can only be found on the unique island. There is no running water and all of the houses collect rainwater, and have personal generators.

My friend Nico, a part Kiwi who resides in Massachusetts (20 minutes from Tufts, go figure) grew up spending Christmas holidays and summers on the Barrier. She generously invited us to visit, and I could not refuse the chance to see the pristine wilderness and remote isle for myself!

To get to the Barrier, we had to take a small (very, very, very small) 12 person plane from the Auckland airport. I was scheduled to take a 4pm flight with my friend Joe and Andrea. Around 1:30, I received a text message from Andrea asking me if I had left for the airport yet. As Joe and I had planned to catch the 3pm airbus, I had not showered, packed, turned in my paper or returned my library books (don’t worry dad, they were not overdue…yet). Relaying this information to Andrea, she politely informed me that she was going to depart for the airport and I could meet her there. First panicking at her early start, but confident in my ability to arrive on time for the flight, I simply kicked it up to high speed mode of preparations (read: running like a crazy lady). Needless to say, Joe and I miraculously arrived at the airbus stop at 2:50 pm, with plenty of time to spare. Too bad the airbus did not show up until 3:20. Fast forward to 3:54, Joe and I arrive at Auckland Domestic Departures, still confident we could make the flight, and erupt into full sprint down the airport terminal. Pushing small children out of my path, flip-flops echoing in my wake, I barrel up to the Great Barrier Island desk at 3:56 to find the desk empty. Sensing defeat, but whole heartedly resisting it, we inquired at the security desk. Yes, the guard smiles blankly as we catch our breath, the flight has just taken off. The next flight? 4pm..Saturday. Hope fades and defeat takes it place on our faces.

But wait! Could it be?! Fly my Sky Air still has a plane on the runway. They had been waiting for a D. Robinson to arrive and so had not taken off for their 4pm departure. Perhaps we could both fly in his place…

Once more we take off into a sprint, this time behind an airport attendant, through security and out onto the runway, where we are whisked into a golf cart and driven to our awaiting plane. Without even enough time to take down our names we hop onto the flight, only to find a laughing Andrea, who had arrived approximately 1.5 hours prior. Thanking our lucky stars and thanking D. Robinson, we take off not 7 minutes after we had arrived at the airport.

We arrived 30 minutes later after a delightful plane ride over Auckland to be greeted by our lovely hostess Nico and whisked away once again, this time in “The Defender” (see pictures), that certainly set the tone for the adventurous island.
That night we visited the one of three restaurants on her side of the island for a delicious vege burger, and then ran home in the pouring rain that was to continue for the next 24 hours.

Having to scratch the hike for the next day due to the monsoon weather conditions, we rose late, cooked an epic breakfast where I managed to pull off chocolate banana pancakes without burning the house down, and waited for the rain to calm down. We ventured out in the late afternoon for a fishing excursion and then spent several more hours in the kitchen preparing an epic dinner meal.

The next day was a cloudless blue sky and warm temperatures, and we took a portion of the previous days hike, visited some natural hot springs and unfortunately, headed home at 5. On the flight home, we sat right behind the pilot and flew into Auckland at sunset. In the words of the Kiwis, it was sweet as bro.

Now it is already Thursday, and I am anticipating a very special visitor…none other than my roomie Jessie from Tufts, who has just concluded a semester in Sydney. We are going to explore the city before we go zorbing this weekend. I Can’t Wait!!!!




The tiny plane!



Nico's House



View from the backporch



The Barrier's Library!!



I may not have gone fishing, but I did pose with fishing rod.



The Defender, Nico's off-roading vehicle of choice!



From left, Me, Andrea, Joe, Jeff, Nico



Hiking on Sunday.



The pilot!







Sunset flying back into Auckland

Wow time has flown by! I can hardly believe it is May, and that’s not just because the weather is starting to get cold here (not only does the toilet flush backward, but the seasons are reversed too!). This post is an abbreviated easter break edition, long overdue, including some highlights of my backpacking trip through the south island!



I traveled through the south island on the Stray Backpackers bus with my buddies from Uni, Ayelet, Kevin, Joe and Margaux. The bus turned out to be a fantastic way to meet some fanstastic people, all with interesting stories about where they had been and where they were going!



The crew at Abel Tasman National Park, considered one of the most beautiful segements of the south Island. This was one of our first stops. We lucked out with fantastic weather and kayaked in the morning and went for a sail in the afternoon.



We had to wear wet suits that had an attached skirt, which stretched over the hole in the kayak, making you (literally) one with the boat.



The Abel Tasman.



Most of the hostels had kitchens, so to save on money we cooked together almost every night of break. My buds were gracious enough to cook vegetarian, though I think most of them had steak, or something equally as carnivorous, immediately after returning home. This is one of the stop through towns on our travels down the west coast. That night we had a costume party to entertain ourselves (Barrytown is made up solely of the hostel where we were staying). The theme was “R” so I dressed as the road, while Margaux was a road worker.



From Abel Tasman we traveled to the Franz Joseph Glacier, where we spent the day ice-climbing and exploring. Apparently this is dangerous, but Ayelet laughs in the face of danger!



Franz Joseph Glacier.



Maura the explorer takes on the glacier...Maura 1, Glacier 0!



Some of the scenery along the drive. There were cows, lots and lots of cows. I was in heaven!



A view of Mt. Cook, the highest mountain in NZ, reflected in Lake Mathenson.



One of my favorite parts of the drive, through Mt. Aispiring Park, from Franz Joseph to Queenstown...so many mountains!!



This is Queenstown, the adventure capital of the New Zealand, and home of the bungy. It is also a huge ski town and tourist location. Surrounded by mountains and set on a lake, it is picturesque to say the very least.



Here I am right before my canyon swing jump....don't be fooled, I wasn't the least bit scared!



Action shot!

March 26-29th

This past weekend was an epic chapter in my tramping biography – 3 days, nineteen hours of backpacking through streams, across forests and up entirely vertical sand dunes! It was fantastic!!!

Cape Reinga is the north most tip of New Zealand, a holy land for the Maori where spirits are said to descend to the underworld after death. The entire climate of the hike was definitely colored by an appreciation of being at the corner of the world—I frequently felt as though we had reached a Lost World or were just about to fall off of the earth’s edge!

We left after my 7pm Spanish class on Thursday, driving about 3 hours to Pahia and crashing at a hostel for the night (enduring numerous creatures and bugs inside I might add) before taking off again at around 7 the next morning to drive the next 2/3 hours to the cape. We arrived at Wahiki Landing Complex, who we had contacted earlier in the week about a drop-off and pick-up at the trailhead because we would be walking in a line, not circuit, and thus could not take our car. It was here several things took an ever so slight detour from our meticulously planned itinerary..

The Landing had been described in the travel guide as the last gas stop before the coast…we were out of gas by the time we arrived…so was the gas station. The DOC had also been described as being “just up the road” from the Landing so, being the inherently city kids we are, assumed they meant physically next door and thus planned on stopping in for a map and directions. Apparently, “Just up the road” in “we live at the end of the world” speak really means 1.5 hours away. So far, no map, no gas.

Next, we tried to work out the drop off situation. Although they assured us that numerous hikers go through them for their transport services, by the confusion our arrival caused, you would think that they had not had visitors in several years.
Long story short, they eventually dug up a map and finagled a ride, with a very Uncle-Willy-esque farmer whose manure in the back of his truck and spiderwebs on his windshield only added to his rustic charm personality. Having just arrived in NZ 4 months earlier from South Africa, he spent the 15 minute drive relating adorable stories of his 5 year old grandson who he had moved to NZ to spend more time with.

Finally arriving at the trailhead at Spirits Bay around midday, we barreled ahead to tackle the 6 hour coastal hike. Once again, the NZ landscape surprised me with a completely different canvas than my previous tramps. I found myself walking along stunning white sand beaches next to crystal blue waters. I also found myself climbing almost entirely vertical green hills up and around the high tide areas.
That night we camped at an official campsite where we gleefully poked fun at the other campers who had DRIVEN there! After a delicious freeze-dried meal (no sarcasm intended, it was delicious!) we turned in to our four person tent…all five of us that is. Of course, and I am still being reminded of this, I slept splendidly. The mosquitoes didn’t bother me, nor did numerous bathroom exits by my buds (I was sleeping with my head by the door) and I so I got a solid 8 hours of sleep. My traveling partners could not say the same…

The next morning we watched the sun rise on the beach, went for a quick swim and then packed up to hit the trail for a 7 hour excursion. About three hours in we made it to the Lighthouse, a landmark of Cape Reinga where it is possible to see the Tasman Sea meet the Pacific Ocean. It was a unique sight, watching waves in the middle of the ocean perpendicular to the shore, and definitely a highlight of the trip. The lighthouse can also be accessed by vehicles and so as we emerged from the trail below (now three days shower-less and extremely sweaty) we certainly caught the tour bus travelers off guard. We had a relaxing lunch break on the cliffs before taking off again, this time to the by far best leg of the trail-- a high coastal trail following the ridgeline with views of the ocean meeting, then dipping off into lush foliage, before descending onto the most magnificent beach I have ever ever been too. Completely empty and shining brilliantly in the perfect weather, I was really moved to tears. It impossible to explain the sentiments and impression the beach left on me, and as we discussed while walking the hour across it, we did not know how we could relate the experience later on. Pictures do not do it justice!

Saturday night we were scheduled to stay at an “informal” campground that by 2010 promised water and toilets, but as night approached we were unable to find the markings for the mysterious allotment. Finding a clearing right off the beach, we decided to call it a night so that we could eat dinner on the beach and watch the sunset. Another delicious freeze dried meal, stargazing and then a good night’s sleep. Well, rather a good night’s sleep for yours truly. More humid then the previous day, my companions related several adjectives the next morning for the tent experience, including a jail cell and a mosquito sauna. At 630 am exactly, they fled from the tent and we were packed and on the trail not 45 minutes later! That morning was a tough haul if only because it was a more monotonous trail and because our bruises, blisters and backpacks were finally taking a toll. Powering through to the end of the hike, we ended at sand dunes (plopped in the middle of streams and trees…only in NZ!) and then exited the park to the road, where we found ourselves on a farm in a field of cow herds without any fences! I was in heaven, watching the glistening black cows gallop through the fields all around us, mooing and acting like the country cows they were.

“Uncle Willy” met us along the road and before long we were headed back to Auckland. Stinky, smelly and all sorts of dirty we entered Whitaker Place at approximately 8pm absolutely happy as clams.

This week is all about studying and cramming for some big tests. Then Friday I am flying to Christchurch on the south island where I start a two week spring break bus tour! I don’t plan on having internet access, but I am hoping to track down a phone card so I can call on Easter! I miss everyone more and more, and I hope things are going well!



Team Cape Reinga at the trail start...from left Maura, Kevin, Ayelet, Henry and Joe



An epic and rather dramatic photo!



Trail along the beach




On the road again...




About half the tramp was elevated along these mountains/cliffs with great view of the water





The meeting of the Tasman and Pacific




Walking the ridge, taking in the view!!




Beach on Saturday




Sunset Saturday night...not a bad place to eat dinner :)




Impromptu campsite..ridiculous faces mirror ridiculous tent size..and ridiculous sriped long johns!! They match my green crocs so well don't ya think!




The best end to a tramp yet...me and Betsy!